The python-patterned wallpaper in Carnevor’s restroom reminded me of a fabulous pair of Jimmy Choo boots I spotted a couple of years ago and in a moment of madness, briefly considered purchasing with the month’s rent money.
Thankfully, dining in the aforementioned restaurant did not present the same dilemma. Since they were participating in Downtown Dining Week, we were able to get a great meal for minimal cost.
Tucked between Cubanitas and late-night hot spot Eve, Carnevor has only been open about six months, but already it has won several coveted awards. Inside tall ebony-hued walls sweep upwards from dark wooden floors, while the glint of yellow lights cast a primeval glow over the tables and bar.
Since the house was completely packed on the evening we showed up sans reservations, the hostess offered to seat us at the bar and provided us with menus created especially for the Downtown Dining experience. Having vowed to incorporate more fish into my diet, I had to go for the salmon filet with Béarnaise sauce.
Preceded by a salad made with baby field greens and tomatoes with sherry mustard vinaigrette, the salmon and side dishes proved to be small on size but big on flavor.
Scott’s steak packed even more of a punch – it was cooked to perfection and revealed just why the name of this steakhouse has recently been on everyone’s lips.
Although predominantly known for serving up prime cuts of beef as well as other protein-packed plates laden with pork chops cooked in brandy apple cinnamon sauce, Cornish hen, and lobster tail, Carnevor also offers a nice assortment of soups, salads, and small plates for those not in need of a massive meal. A couple of items that caught my eye were the nested squash, made with seasonal squash, goat cheese, roasted walnuts, and blackberry sauce, as well as the tuna citrus – seasoned raw tuna with micro greens.
Side item selection is also fantastic, the rosemary parsnip puree and potato leek gratin sounded good. And I can personally testify that the truffled mashed [potatoes] are divine; I sampled them courtesy of the girl next to me who overheard me ask the waiter what was in them and shoved a massive bowl my way with an invitation to sample. I simply couldn’t refuse. There were truffles involved, okay?
Anyway – big thanks to you girlfriend, whoever you are. Those truffled mashed potatoes were the highlight of my meal. Scott would beg to differ though; he was most impressed with the mini donuts we had for dessert.
Not just any mini donuts mind you, gourmet mini donuts mounded in a sleek white serving bowl and accompanied by three different dipping sauces – chocolate, cream, and apple. Simple, tasteful, and just enough over the top to make it completely irresistible. Kinda like those Jimmy Choo’s. . .
After reading the review and comments, we were hesitant to celebrate a birthday at Carnevor, but we dvided to go anyhow. Here's my experience...
Parking was impossible on Friday night, so plan on using the valet service. But beware if you own a $100K Mercedes, as the parking staff will treat it (and hide it) like any other car - out of sight - something discerning attendants will not do at other locales.
The greeting was warm, and the bar wide-open at 7PM - quite a pleasant surprise for early diners, like ourselves. But the Pom was overly sweet, yet generous. The atmosphere was "moderne" with its yellow tapestry insets, dark woods, and timber effects, but the high ceilings and narrow restaurant took some adaptation for me and my friends. This added to pressed spaces, as staff flew along the sides of the room, delivering drinks and various courses of meals to the patrons.
After taking drink orders, we were promptly served with tap water and a tasty onion loaf, warm and fresh. (You know, warm bread in Europe is a sign of freshness, whereas in the US, it often signals staleness - so this was a well-receiced departure from American tradition, even in the finest of restaurants.) Our waiter was intially personable, but having read earlier reviews on the "pushiness" of some, we were prepared to set the tempo, ourselves. Frankly, I have no respect for restaurant goers who fail to demand a level and quality of service, only to passively accept what is "dished out" and then later criticize the service - stay in control, baby - it's your buck! So we did - he interrupted only twice - the first time and the last time - requiring only 1 correction at the outset, after which, he was appropriately pinned to respond to us instead of us to him...
Anyway, we started with the small seafood fix - a wonderful medley of split king crab leg (1), medium shrimp (6), oysters on the half shell (4), mussles (6), and a generous portion of lump crabmeat (3 ozs) served atop a large porcelain tray of ice with 3 dipping sauces - cocktail, mustard, and vinegar. This was more than sufficient for the 3 of us. Being an East Coaster with decades of first-hand seafood faring experience, I was pleased with the oysters and mussels. The crab was acceptable, but the split halves were from different legs, and the meat was sparce (knuckles and claws, guys, work best). The shrimp would not pass for either jumbo, nor extra large - although I considered them medium, since many shrimp cocktails as places, such as Alexander's and elsewhere are larger and less "chewy."
Two of us followed with the lobster bisque, while the third had a Ceasar salad with iceberg lettuce. The bisque was too thin in consistency, as small pockets of water shimmered spottedly on the top of what should be anticipated a thoroughly creamy texture. Presentation was left only to one's imagination, as small chunks (perhaps 1-1/2 ozs) of the lobster were scattered in the shallow bowl of dispapointment. The texture and darkness revealed a concotion that was likely not freshly prepared that day. The salad was unremarkable, but crispy. It failed to redeem the appetizing moment we were sharing.
One of us had the Kansas City Strip, while another had the bone-in rib-eye. I had the surf-and-turf, an 8 oz filet and 12 oz South African lobster tail. Interestingly enough, other reviewers failed to compare the bell-weather vanguard of steaks in Milwaukee for comparison, instead citing places like Martini's, Mo's and Ponderosa. After this experience at Carnevor and with these and many other venues, Coerper's at 2416 W State Street remains the best place in town for steak - despite it's atmosphere and unpretentious service. If one is going to pay $35 or more for a piece of meat, it better be a worthy beef, well-prepared, and delivered to please the tatse-buds. Neither of my companions finished their entrees, opting to "bag the left-overs" for home. I shared the lobster, and consumed my "very pink" filet, which I had requested to be medium well to well. Clearly, the kitchen was rushed or the entree chef would have paid closer attention to this detail - it is a steakhouse, of course. While I am far from ranking Carnevor close to Ponderosa like some, I humbly consider them unable to meet the standards which the, themselves, have promoted as a steakery. They simply are unable to achieve beyond their abilities. I ordered a red-wine sauce and suateed mushrooms, which pleasantly added to the flavor, but the saltiness of the "shrooms" only enhanced the apparent salt oo the Kansas City strip, as my associate could not consume much beyond a third of the serving.
As sides, we partook in "creamed" corn, spinach, and OH! gratin potatoes. The potaties were tasty, but cold. The creamed corn was pasty, and inspid, but the spinach was acceptable. More bread, please?
Desert was a complimentary serving of Carnevor "Munchkins" and dipping sauces (vanilla, chocolate and rasberry). We also had a fudge tort with whipped cream for the birthday boy. We have these types of donuts elsewhere...deep-fried and very sugary, they were dissatisfyingly hard. They were difficult to dip in the mini-tubs of sauces, but as any bad behaving diabetic will tell you, the sugar high will make you forget all of the disappointments of the evening. We had heaping glassware of Alterra coffee to cut through the contents and settle the night's affairs.
Table clearing was fast, but not imprudent. I just hate it when the server or bus person tries to take individual plates as people finish, instead of waiting until the course is completed by all, then removing the plates. Carnevor has accepted Emily Post on this, at least. But, at the possibility of repeating myself, the experience would have been devasting if we had not turned the tables to demand what we wanted in our service, rather than become passive agressive in accepting an arrogant instruction throughout the evening. Diners, be the cause of your surroundings and not the effect!
The total bill for 3 was about $200 plus tip, which we generously provided at 20%. Over-priced? Of course - the surf-and-turf was a frozen tail and a under-cooked beef for $62. The small seafood appetizer was $39 and would have only set the house back about $12. The other steaks were generous portions of insipid (though salty) beef, but the ala carte sides could have been included in the price, providing at least an appearance of value. But let's face it, people aren't going to Milwaukee Street these days to find value; they're looking for hip-and-trendy joints to see and be seen, but Milwaukee restaurant life remains light years behind really cool places like the flats at Cleveland, Rush Street in Chi-town, and South Beach in Florida. The long-standing best value in the 700-block of Milwaukee Street must truly be considered a day-time delight...the Alpine Cleaners! At least you'll get what you pay without the wannabe attitude.
Posted by: Big D | June 24, 2006 at 08:27 AM